Nav Menu 2. It also comes with an aluminum cylinder head, front timing covers, front crank pully, valve cover and an oil pan.
It should also be noted that this spec engine could not accommodate a crank-driven hydraulic pump. In order to ID this engine, you can see a "2. You can just ignore the FE cast that's located into the cylinder head's side, mainly because it is also used on the F2 2.
Extendable to 36 months. Depending on the issue, a Repair or replacement will be issued. Please contact PDK Engines before attempting to repair. A company could even easily be very well affected by the kind of leadership that it has.
In the area of mobile and transport technology, a technology that has shown so much growth and experienced so much spike in sales is the Mazda Fe Engine. It is an engine that's better than anyone out there not just only for the features that it has, but because of the actual results, it has generated for its stakeholders. We have to emphasize here that this engine is described to be one of the most reliable OHV in the market that is a compatible match with a 4-cylinder long block engine.
This may be something that can be emulated by others in the industry, but it stands as a great mark of credibility that what Mazda does in this engine is that it gives it more than what is expected. Yes, it comes with the standard aluminum cylinder head. It may also have the same front timing covers or front crank pulley that are available in other brands, but what stands out in Mazda's engineering is that it was able to generate these elements and other engine components at the most cost-efficient method without compromising the quality.
First to emphasized in the strengths of Mazda would really need to be the fact that it is made by Mazda itself.
Mazda F engine
It is a brand that has already been tested by time and has made so many improvements in their operations that their products would always find it easy to improve. This engine has also earned a reputation of being one of the best engines out there that can accommodate even the crank-driven hydraulic pumps.
Even the Hyster and Yale brands today must have seen some powerful features in this engine and have seen that it's as highly valuable and profitable as it appears. Otherwise, the brand would not be investing in them. Another strength that should also be observed from this Mazda FE Forklift Engine is that its rings specifications are even improving over the years, generating more renown for the fact that many more brands appear to be lending their trust even more to Mazda in this regard.
Truly, when Mazda engineered this engine, they always put first the customers themselves. Related Items. Mazda F2 Forklift Engine.Do you have the same problem? It started right up but almost immediately began to whine and the engine stalled out once.
Timing belt timing marks
The pulleys and belt came in a kit gates tck The new automatic tensioner I put on is a cloyes It is a cast iron unit instead of aluminum. Is the belt too tight? Should I try using the old tensioner? The new one had more stickout but I checked online and this is the recommended part. Please help. Thank you Was this answer helpful? Mark mhpautos Was this answer helpful? The old hydraulic tensioner puked oil when I compressed it to pin the plunger for reassembly. My understanding is this means replacement.
The cloyes part had a stickout greater than that of the factory piece. Either there is some mid year cutoff or this part is manufactured wrong. I have a dayco replacement on order which is, from observation on the website, identicle to the factory aluminum piece instead of a cast iron replacement-same stickout. The cloyes had a lifetime replacement, the dayco one year.
Go figure. Thanks Was this answer helpful? The car starts and idles fine but now it makes the "whirring" sound as soon as you hit the throttle. This is my nieces car so i'm unsure if this is normal becuase i'm rarely in it. Is this normal or should it not be making this noise at any rpm? I realize that a cogged timing belt or any drivebelt of this type should emit some audible noise.During these challenging times, we guarantee we will work tirelessly to support you.
We will continue to give you accurate and timely information throughout the crisis, and we will deliver on our mission — to help everyone in the world learn how to do anything — no matter what.
Thank you to our community and to all of our readers who are working to aid others in this time of crisis, and to all of those who are making personal sacrifices for the good of their communities. We will get through this together. The timing belt and its tensioner and idler must be removed and install a new water pump unless it is new; how and why is explained.
Do "not" rotate the crankshaft or cams while the timing belt is off or you will do severe damage as this is an interference engine. Follow the steps carefully and double check all the removal, installation and reassembly steps including carefully tightening bolts -- checking and rechecking all work as you go.
This article has also been viewedtimes. Learn more Explore this Article Removing spark plugs, harmonic pulley, valve cover. Timing marks, align timing, accessory belts. Removing engine mount. Show 2 more Show less Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need.There are several specialist websites that can help you out when looking for information about the markings on a Yale forklift engine:.
For example, you could visit the multi-purpose mechanical forum fixya. If you've lost the manual for your Yale fork-lift, and you think this would contain details on the timing marks, you could search for the relevant manual at umanuals. Yale fork-lift engines are made by Mazda, so if you've already tried Yale, contact Mazda via their website at mazdausa. As you can see, a number of fork-life repair outfits are present on YouTube, so maybe someone could help if you left a question in the comments field?
Didn't find the answer you were looking for? Ask a Question. Tim Cook answered. There are several specialist websites that can help you out when looking for information about the markings on a Yale forklift engine: For example, you could visit the multi-purpose mechanical forum fixya. Other sites you could join and ask around for help include forkliftaction. Answer Question.Dec 13, 06 Update Holley Page changed to new layout! One of the big problems people have with their Mazda Truck is timing.
Many people will buy a truck that someone has fooled with before and since a lot of times they have never owned a mazda before they can't get it timed right or they decide to change the belt and can't get it right again. This is a real quick procedure to check your timing and can also be used to pinpoint other problems in the engine with out a bunch of instruments and gauges.
Ok, first off this article is based off of a Mazda B, this procedure should be universal with all distributor vehicles but timing marks and things like that will vary slightly between different truck models. You will need to remove the upper timing cover so you can see the cam sprocket. It will come off with 4 10mm bolts, 2 on top 2 on the bottom.
My engine is fairly stripped of accessories so this takes me about 47 seconds but you may have to work around emission ducting to the exhaust and stuff like that. This is what you should have now on the B, don't worry what number is at the pointer at the moment as you now need to turn number one piston up to top dead center.
Before trying to turn the engine make sure that the tranny is in neutral, otherwise the engine won't turn and you risk stretching the timing belt. Put the wrench on the crank bolt and turn it clockwise until the mark on the harmonic balancer crank pulley lines up with the TDC mark on the lower timing cover. Now look at the cam sprocket the dowl in the cam should be in the hole for number 1. If the arrow for number 1 A is not lined up with the arrow above the sprocket turn it over 1 A more time to TDC.
If you don't lash in the timing belt will throw the entire thing off and you may think its wrong when it is actually timed right. At this time your cam sprocket should look precisely like the picture above and your crank pulley like the picture below Now to double check and make sure that number 1 piston is at TDC.
To do this you will need to remove 1 spark plug and put something like a skrewdriver or a dowl rod in there, it should not go in very far before it stops. If it doesn't go in very far turn the crank pully a little bit, the skrewdriver should move.
If you put the skrewdriver in there and it drops all the way down to the handle then 1 piston is in the wrong place, you will need to loosen the timing belt and rotate the pully around 1 time until the mark lines up again. Now the skrewdriver should only go in a few inches before stopping.
Note: if useing a skrewdriver be careful, it is possable to scratch the top of the piston or damage the cylinder head. It is recommended you use something that can't scratch metal, also be careful that you don't drop whatever it is your using into the cylinder.
If the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is lined up, 1 piston at TDC, and the cam is installed properly then 1 cylinder should be on its compression stroke. To double check this turn the engine over by hand with your tumb over 1 spark plug hole, as the timing mark reaches TDC AND 1 A on the cam sprocket lines up you should feel pressure push your thumb off the hole.
Also if you remove the valve cover both valves on 1 should be fully closed and the springs uncompressed. Now to check the distributor. It should look something like the picture below, where each wire goes depends on the firing order of your engine. On the B it is with 1 being the cyliner at the front of the truck. So just take the 2 screws off for the distributor cap to look where the rotor button is. Here is the rotor button: The contact on the rotor button by the 1 in picture above should be located where number one spark plug wire would be on the distributor.
If that is where it is at it should be installed properly if it is some place else take the distributor out and line up the dimple on the gear with the mark on the distributor shaft and put it back in.Introduced in as the 1. These heads came attached to multiple variations of the different blocks and strokes. Only the petrol 8-valve and valve shared the same gasket pattern. These engines are only the predecessors to the F-series engines, in no other way related.
They were fitted to rear-wheel drive models in a longitudinal arrangement. This is in contrast to the successor engines that were designed for transverse front-wheel drive applications as had become the trend in the lates and earlys.
It was all new in and has an alloy eight-valve head on an iron block. The 2. Fuel injection was available in and Other capacities were available in some markets, such as the NA 1.
Later on, this engine was designated the F. At a compression ratio of 8. With a compression ratio of 8. It uses the same exhaust cam, but a different intake cam with less lift and a long, single-runner intake manifold. The F8 is usually identified by its unpainted cam cover.
It is usually found in wagon variants. The Japanese variant of this engine was dubbed the Magnum Turbo. There were at least five different FE-DOHC engines available with various compression ratio, camshaft and ECU tuning combinations however none were fitted with a turbocharger from the factory. Like many DOHC engines, this engine has an interference valvetrain design, making periodic timing belt changes vital to the engine's life. Should the timing belt break the engine should be replaced as piston and valvetrain damage will occur.
Mazda F engine
Introduced for the — GD platform cars, it can also be found in the B pickup and Ford Probe. The compression ratio was raised to 9. With an 8. It is rumored that this figure was produced at the drive wheels, as this engine was suspected to be under-rated. However Mazda had only ever quoted these figures as SAE Net and DIN which are crankshaft rating standards, as required by law in the countries where the cars were sold. Due to the increased torque output, Mazda was forced to increase the strength of the transmission for the F2T, producing the H-type, the strongest FWD gearbox Mazda produced at the time.
The R-series engines are diesel variants that are very closely related to the F-series, sharing essentially the same engine block. The FS and FP are structurally different from the original F-blocks with much smaller bore spacing, much shorter deck height and smaller head and journal dimensions. In the engine evolved into the FS-DE by undergoing several changes, most notably a distributorless ignition as well as the move from hydraulic lifters to solid shim-on-bucket lifters.
Japan received a couple of variations of the FS motor, all with increased power outputs. The 1. This engine is often incorrectly called the F8which is the earlier destroked engine based on the FE. The FP is very close to the FS in many ways and shares a large percentage of parts but has its own FP specific block, crank, rods, pistons and timing belt.Having trouble using the Discussion Forums?
Contact us for help. Click here for more information. Back to discussion list My forum profile Discussion: need help timing mazda 2. Post a Reply Report this post. Showing items 1 - 15 of 15 results.
Sort messages by: Newest first Oldest first. Swoop, your the man!!! When you replaced the head did you adjust the valves? They must be rotated properly so the flat spot of the ball sits properly on the valve when it is assembled. If all that is good, I would put a timing light on 1 and check the timing looking at the notches on the fan belt pulley on the crankshaft, to make sure the distributor is installed properly.
The air filter is currently off. Know its a WAG but what condition is the air filter in? Once you get the crank on TDC with 1 piston at the top of the stroke and line up the cam gear on position A that pin will line up with the pin it's supposed to lock into. Those other letters are for other reasonsthey might be set differently on a different engine that uses that same sprocket i think or maybe some other engineering purpose. Is the cam sprocket always on A? Could it be on B or CX? Also I have 3 spots where the pin can go in the cam sprocket.
I have it in A now and A is lined up with the mark on the head. The distributor rotor is on 1 when it's seated.
The belt hasn't seemed to move either. When I turn the engine over by hand the marks line up each time. Could there be a fuel issue?
It would be either on 1 journal or it would be out i think. The only place i can think of he might be off is the timing belt I've changed belts before and after i let the belt tensioner tighten up sometimes the timing would be one tooth out because i didn't compensate for the belt pulling in when the tensioner tightened up.
I'll check it out tomorrow when I get to work. Thank you.
If someone has messed with it in the past though the wire and seal may be missing but the screws have the holes in them for the wire and seal thing. The firing order is correct. Is the governor spring under the carb? If that happens it will not accelerate and half the time might not run.